Week 4, Gay Pride in Amsterdam
8/01/12-8/6/12
In this last week in Amsterdam I noticed extra enthusiasm among the group, it was as if everyone wanted to express his or her love for the group dynamic and take in every last breath of Holland. In class, we analyzed gender identity, the various spectrum of gender in South Asia (culturally, they recognized 5 genders), and sexual reassignment surgery. I had to cross my legs extra tight during the lecture from the Vrije Gender Clinic, especially during the slide show visually explaining the steps to invert a penis or attach a penis to an individual.
Our last week in Amsterdam happened to be the Dutch national gay pride week, the second biggest celebration in Nederland (after Queens’ Day). Hundreds of thousands of people gather from all over Europe to enjoy the LGBT art exhibitions, gay history, gay bars and clubs, the Homomonument, and all the House and Dub shows. Saturday was the gay pride canal parade and Gert Hekma offered me his spot on the Universiteit van Amsterdam boat, open to UvA students and professors, and paid my 50 euro entrance fee. He said he did not want to learn the dance and I would enjoy it much more, so I graciously accepted—what an honor and privilege! Gert has been the single most influential person on this trip; he really has done a lot for me. A girl in my program, Erica, won some kind of contest through UvA and got a spot also—we were the only Americans on the boat and the only people that didn’t speak Dutch. Wednesday night was the dance rehearsal to Nicki Minaj’s “Starships” and a song by the famous Dutch drag queen Dolly Bellefleur who accompanied our boat. The rehearsal was great fun and everyone was very helpful with translating the Dutch for me and Erica. The choreographer winked at me a few times before flirting with me in Dutch. Even though I did not understand what he said, I know when I’m being hit on. I met a cute, tall German guy named Fabian who was doing an internship in Amsterdam—we hung out before and during the parade on Saturday and went out for dinner and drinks that Sunday. Fabian had a great sense of humor and adorable smile and even though we only saw each other three times, I’ll never forget him. He got me excited to travel to Berlin! Laurens Buijs, one of our former lectures, helped organize the boat so it was nice to see a familiar face at the rehearsal. He came in with a buff, gorgeous, 23 year old blond guy named Robin and both of their necks were covered in hickeys. Of course I assumed they were together but Laurens, Robin, and I had a good laugh after I called Laurens out at Thursday’s goodbye borrel. Apparently they are best friends and the hickeys were a total coincidence.
Thursday was our last class at UvA so we spent the period giving presentation on our observations and curiosities in the Netherlands and how they affect our research topic. Everyone in the class spoke for about 10 minutes and most presentations ended in tears. It was an absolutely beautiful way to end the trip. Even I cried! After class was our goodbye borrel at the bar café t’mandje accompanied by Casey Butler, Laurens Buijs, and even Mattias Duyves! Mattias had just come from visiting Berlin, so he gave me a list of gay and historical places to check out in Berlin. The class spent a few hours drinking and socializing at café t’mandje before dispersing off a few people at a time for dinner plans. Elaine, Emily, Katy, and I were the last ones at café t’mandje with Professor Grant who did not have dinner plans. Her partner and two daughters visited her in Amsterdam for two weeks and her sister came to visit the next week; however she was alone for the last week of the trip so she took us out for Thai food at Bird (the same place I went with Hiro)! As three broke college students abroad, we are very lucky to have had such a generous professor. The meal was fantastic and the conversation was engaging as Emily, Elaine, Prof Grant, and I are all involved with James Madison. Katy didn’t say much because she’s not familiar with JMC, but she seemed content stuffing her face with rice. We mentioned the acronyms for the four JMC majors: SRP, CCP, IR, and PTCD and at one point Katy looked up from her plate of Thai and said in a mumble, “all the letters…” Katy later admitted she ate a space cake and was feeling a little spacey. On the way home from Bird we stopped into a sex shop to browse and when I walked out I felt a drop on my head. It was brown and looked like some type of oil but I soon realized a bird had just pooped on my head. The girls almost fell over from laughter (including Prof Grant) after Katy said, “Usually you have to pay 50 Euro for that.” I got some tissue from the sex shop owner who assured me that getting pooped on by a bird is a sign of good fortune to come in his home country of Poland. Too bad I’m not in Poland.
Thursday night marked the official opening of Amsterdam’s week long gay pride and the class spent it at the Homomonument where a dubstep/house show was going on. It was similar to a single stage at D.E.M.F. where the party goes all night but the DJ switches every 2 or 3 hours. Huge stages were set up in every major plein (plaza) of Amsterdam so there were about a dozen parties going on all over the city, every night Thurs-Sunday. Casey came to that show also and brought some “Casey Express” which kept us going all night.
At one point Marie jumped on stage with her hula hoop and torn it up with her crazy hula hoop moves. Leah was pulled on stage by one of the female DJs and they began dancing together in front of the crowd. Danni and I definitely appreciated the quality of the show (and the free cover) as we have seen many house shows. This was one of the better ones! The European house music has less bass than we’re used to in the US, however it emphasizes more “beats” and electronica. Street parties in Amsterdam get rowdy but the only substances I saw being used were cannabis and alcohol which I cannot say about DEMF or other shows in Detroit. The next morning was spent sleeping & recuperating but everyone made it to the program’s farewell dinner at Mati Hara, the last group activity of the Spicy Dutch Bitches—(that’s our secret Facebook group name) ;). After dinner we pregamed at a street party on Zeedjik before going to the Homomonument show. Friday night was like the night before: beats, bumps, and boys.
Saturday’s Gay Pride Canal Parade was the best experience I had in Amsterdam, possibly the best experience of my life. Erica and I took a bus to the meeting point for the boat: an industrial bay off of the River Ij. Each of the 129 boats (we were 79) had their own theme and a message about equality. The theme of our “University Boat” was openness and acceptance in education. We wore black gradation caps and gowns and everyone was assigned a color of shirt to wear—the idea was to create a giant rainbow underneath the black gowns. My color was green which was perfect because I brought a really sexy, tight green v-neck from H&M.
Laurens, Robin, and Fabian were there so Erica and I talked to them while we waited for the parade to start. Lunch and alcohol were provided…perhaps a little too much alcohol for many people. The Dutch Minister of Education, Marja van Bijsterveldt, spoke to our boat specifically about the national tolerance of homosexuality and christened the boat with a bottle of champagne. Since the boats are designed like barges each boat is pulled by a towboat. Once we got to the River Ij, before entering the canal, a rain cloud passed over and it started hailing! The rest of the day was beautiful but thankfully everyone was given a poncho to prepare for Holland’s bi-polar weather.
Fabian and I were huddled under a poncho together, so I stole a kiss—very romantic, heat of the moment type thing. I noticed we weren’t the only ones though; a few other people were sharing ponchos and kisses as well. Amsterdam canals have very low bridges so each time we went under one, everyone had to crouch or lay and people were stealing kisses then too. The parade took place on the Prinsengracht canal which, amazingly, is the same canal as our flats. When we came up to our flats, I saw a big MSU flag hanging out Danni’s window and a rainbow flag hanging out Elaine’s window. I noticed Professor Grant, Justin, Elaine, Danni, Abbie, Katy, and Nic in the window taking pictures of our boat so I took one of them! The parade was the best experience because I met so many cool, young, locals and added them on FB of course. We bonded over sharing cultural ideas and Dutch political perspectives, and participating in THE gay party of Nederland.
Saturday night, most of our group went to the house show at Rembrandtplein (the biggest of the “plein parties”). It was an AWESOMEEEEEEEEEEE show. I hope all the “E”s adequately capture how awesome this show was. They had drag performers, men in leather, LED storm troopers (like Dayglow), and a stage that shoots fire.
Dancing next to me was a cute Dutch guy with a Confederate flag on his shirt. I thought it was strange so I asked him if he knew what it meant; he had no idea about the Confederacy or the American slavery stigma associated with it. Later that night, our whole class got together in Emily’s room with multiple bottles of wine and said our goodbyes. Fabian took me out to dinner on Sunday and we spent a few hours swapping cultural experiences and travel stories. We also took turns showing each other YouTube videos from our native country—he thoroughly enjoyed the “twerk it” video.
Elaine and I were scheduled to depart from Amsterdam to Berlin by bus at 11:15pm on Monday, August 6th. Gert offered to let us store our luggage in his penthouse in the red light district so we left our Prinsengracht flats at noon and headed there. Leah and Marie had a flight to Norway later that night so Leah met us at Gert’s house for tea. Mattias joined us also. Gert and Mattias are quite possibly the most interesting and friendly men I have ever met and the conversation was engaging as always. Gert showed me a book of illustrations done by a German artist of various themed parties from a Berlin gay sex club which made me a little…intimidated to go to Berlin. Little did I know at the time, I would be visiting a Berlin sex club where most of the illustrations were set. Elaine and I spent a few hours strolling around the city one last time before going back to Gert’s for our luggage. When we returned, Gert and Mattias offered us some wine and snacks and water for the bus ride. They have interesting perspectives on gay life, culture, and politics and they explained some implications behind a common gay relationship—often, married gay men in the Netherlands have monogamous love for one another, however sex is playful and not connected with intense emotion, therefore it is common to take other lovers. After another hour or so of chatter, I said goodbye to those beautiful men and Mattias walked us to the metro station. Elaine and I took the metro to the bus depot at Amstel Station, ate a special cupcake, and before I knew it, it was 9am and the adventure in Berlin began.
Things I’ve learned: Looking for a cheap place to eat? McDonalds!
Things I need to learn: German or Dutch! I want to be able to communicate with the greatest people in the world!
Shopping: H&M will forever and always be the greatest. There are 4 in Amsterdam.













































